We can’t wear a kimono without “Kirikoshi”? I tailored a “kurikoshi” size-0 kimono.

What is the function of “kurikoshi”?
Is it possible to wear the kimono without kurikoshi?

This time I tailored a kimono without kurikoshi.
This is a kimono to test how the kurikoshi works.

Tailored Measurements.

  • Mitake 4尺3寸5分
  • Yuki 1尺8寸
  • Sodehaba 9寸
  • Katahaba 9寸
  • Sodetake 1尺4寸
  • Sodetsuke 6寸
  • Miyatsukuchi 4寸
  • Maehaba 7寸
  • Ushirohaba 7寸
  • Dakihaba 通し
  • Okumihaba 4寸
  • Aizumahaba 3寸7分
  • Kataaki 2寸3分
  • Kensaki 1寸8分
  • Eri-tsukekomi 3分
  • Kurikoshi 0

Impressions of wearing it

I found that even without kurikoshi, the Emon was sufficiently moved.
The following are my impressions of wearing it.

  • The collar under my ears is much cleaner and more comfortable than usual.
  • The collar feels like it sits above my collarbone, and I can adjust the collar to my liking.
  • The o-ha-shori will be shorter.
  • There is too much fabric at the back of the arms.

What has changed especially after setting without kurikoshi.

The o-ha-syori got shorter.

The length of the body was the same as usual, so the length was shortened because move Emon very much.
I could have solved this problem by making the body longer, but I was worried about the feeling of a lot of fabric gathering around the waist at the back.

The shoulder has moved to the back more than usual.

The fact that the shoulders are on the back side of the body itself is the same as usual, but because of the no kurikoshi has brought them down considerably.
The position of the shoulders is a matter of the taste, so I personally think it can be any positions.

着物寸法【基本】繰越の考え方
繰越寸法は、いくつが良いのか?繰越を決めるための基準をお伝えしています。

There was too much cloth on the back of my arm.

This is the excess cloth left over because making the sleeve-attach meant are the same size as the front and back.
The excess cloth can be used to create a kimono’s unique drape and express its beauty.
This time, there is too much.
The problem can be solved by changing the sleeve-attachment dimensions in the front and back, and tailoring the sleeves differently.

The back of my collar has changed.

Comparing with the kurikoshi size of 7分, the collar is now horizontal.
For more details, please refer to繰越0から分かる着物の寸法~繰越の比較をしました~

着物寸法「繰越」を変えると、着姿はどう変わるのか?! -繰越の比較②-
着物の寸法「繰越」は、どんな影響を与えているのか?着物の寸法「繰越」には、どんな意味があるのか?
繰越と着姿の変化を

conclusion

Even if there is no kurikoshi, the emon can be moved.
This time, when I pulled out a lot of much emon compared to the amount of kurikoshi, I felt that the collar was more stable.
It also seemed easier to do a deep collar match.

The advantage of setting a kurikoshi is that you don’t need to make any major changes to the body length and sleeve attachments.
There’s also the matter of taste, but the back of the collar, especially the curve of the collar, is natural.

What I found inconvenient about setting the kurikoshi to zero was that a lot of fabric accumulated around the back waist, which was annoying.
The sleeving was the same size, so the cloth that accumulates at the back of the arms is very annoying.

Basically, you need to set the kurikoshi half the amount of the emon you want to move.
However, you can change the size of the kurikoshi according to where you want the shoulders to be and where you like the shoulders to be.
I thought that by changing the size of the kurikoshi according to where you want the shoulder to be, you can make the kimono look more ideal.

Note

Not to recommend a without kurikoshi kimono.
This is a kimono to test how the kurikoshi works.

The standard size of the kurikoshi is 7分(2.6cm) or 8分(3cm).
My everyday kimono is tailored with a 5分(2cm) kurikoshi.
It is common to change the size of the kurikoshi depending on how much of the emon is to be moved.

Photos

この記事を書いた人

Mkimono

Japanese kimono tailor|Based in Japan
Every Friday, I hold a Wasai class in Japanese. I am aiming to hold Wasai classes in English.